Check to make sure you have the right size crank puller. Crank arms secured by nuts require one type, bolts another and then you throw those crazy Italians Campy in the mix and you need another one. Just make sure it seems to go together correctly or it could result in an epic fail. Lube up the spindle and mating area i. Unscrew the center portion of the tool out as far as it will go, the thread the out part of the tool into the crank arm, make sure it goes in all the way and then slightly tighten it with a wrench.
I was a little lazy on this part in the video, but its important if you don't want to rip out any of the threads you need to get the tool in as far as it will go.
Tighten the inner part of the tool into the part screwed into the crank until the crank pops of, sometimes you have to crank like hell, if you can postition the wrench arm and the crank so you can squeeze them together to get some leverage, or put a pipe over the end of the wrench for extra leverage.
If you have a pipe laying around. Pull the crank arm off and remove the tool, then repeat on the opposite side! View the discussion thread. Skip to main content. We use cookies to make wikiHow great.
By using our site, you agree to our cookie policy. Cookie Settings. Learn why people trust wikiHow. Download Article Explore this Article parts. Things You'll Need. Tips and Warnings. Related Articles. Article Summary. Part 1. Detach the right pedal from the crank arm with a 15mm wrench. The crank arm is the elongated piece that connects the pedals to the crank.
Fit the wrench around the rod that connects the crank arm and pedal. Then, turn the wrench counterclockwise times to loosen it from the crank arm.
Rotate the crank arm clockwise to detach the pedal. Hold the pedal and rotate the crank arm clockwise. Continue rotating the crank around until the pedal detaches from the crank arm.
It may take full rotations of the crank to remove the pedal. Repeat the process on the left pedal. The left pedal is reverse-threaded. Use a 15mm wrench to loosen the left pedal from the bike. Then, hold the left pedal and rotate the crank arm to completely detach it from the bike.
Both pedals should now be completely removed. If you're standing on the left, or non-drive side, of the bike, rotate the crank arm counterclockwise. Part 2. Remove the cap from the center of the crank, if it has one.
Some cranks will have a metal or plastic cap that fits over the bolt on the crank. If your crank has one, fit a screwdriver under the edge of the cap and pop it out of its fitting. This will reveal the crank bolt.
Loosen the pinch bolts with an Allen key, if the crank has them. Some cranks will have pinch bolts, or 2 smaller bolts, near the top of the crank arm. If your crank has these, insert a 5mm Allen key into the holes at the top of the arm and rotate the key counterclockwise. The 2-bolt design is for Shimano cranks. For this type of crank, you also need to remove the plastic pre-load screw on the left, or non-drive, side of the bike.
Not all cranks have these pinch bolts. Insert an Allen key into the crank bolt and turn it counterclockwise. Turn the handle of the Allen key counterclockwise to loosen the crank bolt. Then use it to completely unscrew the crank bolt. Most cranks require a 4mm-8mm Allen key. An Allen key is also called an Allen wrench or a hex key. You can find them at bike shops and hardware stores.
The end is actually an octagon since the square edges have been bevelled slightly. The crank is wedged into a tight connection with the tapered spindle through tightening the crank bolts. How to Remove a Square Taper Crankset.
It is crucially important to remove your crankset correctly. The tools required are as follows. An 8mm allen wrench from your set of allen wrenches is the first. Double up on the 4mm and 5mm wrenches since they are used the most on bikes—brakes, derailleurs, stems, handlebars, accessories. Gives you extra leverage and thus more control when breaking tight bolts free of their threads, or securely tightening bolts home.
The 8mm wrench is for removing the crank bolts. And re-fitting them later on. Once loose, though, they will just screw out easily. Well, as long as they were installed with grease. A long-handled torque wrench is really useful. A big wrench like this makes breaking the bolts free of the spindle a lot easier. You just dial the torque setting up to 70 nM or more. You will need an 8mm bit with a half-inch socket drive for both installing the bolts properly and removing them down the road.
Or you can use a smaller tool. Then extend the handle with a piece of pipe or something like that. A seat post is perfect for this. The essential tool, though, is a crank puller. What is it, how do you use it and what other tools do you need with it? Check out the next section. You can get tool bundles with a crank puller plus wrenches for around seven bucks or so on Amazon.
No excuse not to have one. Ok, sure, you can remove the crank without one. But that relies on impact force and. Good Luck. I think of using impact techniques in bicycle assembly or disassembly as like surgery on the human body. Surgery is invasive and only ever a last resort. Slow consistent pressure, building slowly then releasing slowly is usually always the best approach.
One of the better ones. He uses a screwdriver as a wedge in between the lockring face and the crank. Tapping it has the effect of squeezing the crank away from the spindle. A slip of the hammer, screwdriver or, heavens forbid, cold chisel!!! He makes it look easier than it is. You really have to have the right touch and there is a learning curve involved to get that touch.
The big end on the left screws into the crank—your crank has threads cut into the spindle aperture and the puller will fit right in. Here the foot is fully extended. But you get the idea. I use one of these for that very reason. Nothing much to it really. Or read on. We cover the whole process below. Firstly, remove the crank bolt with the 8mm wrench. Screw it out as far as it will go. Then install it into the crank. As with any threaded tool or component that you need to always be mindful not to cross the threads.
This thread is conventional right-hand thread so seat it correctly in the crank threads. It also does not hurt to apply some light oil, sewing machine oil, that sort of thing, to the threads. Light lubrication ensures easier installation and removal, as well giving the most resistant-free experience in turning the foot bolt and pressing the crank away from the spindle.
A 15mm socket wrench is the best tool to use. A socket ratchet wrench is the most convenient of course. Or ring spanner. Basically you want to be using a tool with the longest handle possible.
That way you will get the leverage required for the intial turns. A crescent wrench will be fine also, but more likely to slip given the amount of force required at the very beginning of this procedure. Nevertheless, a big crescent wrench with a long handle will give you more leverage than alternative, shorter handled, tools. The crank will likely be fitted tightly.
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