Pectic enzyme helps with speeding up the extraction of fruit sugars in the fermentation process. Triple Distilled Turbo Yeast is designed to produce an ultra-clean fermentation process. Step by Step Opening up fermentation bucket, and taking the temperature of the wash using a thermometer.
Also what temperatures in the room that your fermenter is in. Are you in the zone? Stirring mash with a spoon and looking for anything still granulated or undissolved sugar. You must completely dissolve sugars prior to adding yeast. Temperatures must not be too hot or too cold prior to adding yeast Check the tightness on your lid, you could have a lip seeping in air. Check out our Distilling Yeast available now at Mile Hi Distilling Let us know what you thought of this guide by leaving a comment or a star rating below.
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Red star wet cake is usually pretty cost effective as well. You can get it everything from 2oz portions to 10lb blocks. Although, you've got to use it fast. So you trade one for the other. You can't have your cake and eat it too or rather, the yeast can't. Thomasedwin said: I have used the turbo yeast and a few times it produced a acidic smell and taste and that has never happened using the cheap stuff.
Probably an unrelated coincidence, acidity in the wash and distillate is usually a sign of bacterial involvement almost always lactic acid bacteria, but sometimes some other critters. I thought about going to a local winery and asking for some of their yeast just to try for comparison. The way you guys talk on here with gallon fermenters I think I'm way out of my class, I only run 30 gallon batches. It seems a little high for 30 gallon of mash but I have a 3 inch diameter x 30inch long copper column with 9 water cooled reflux plates controlled with a needle valve and a 7 tube counter flow shotgun condenser.
I strips the alcohol out pretty good. On the first run it starts a good stream at F and continues until about F and then goes to a slow drip, That's when I know most all the alcohol has been stripped out. If I let it run longer than that it will jump from F to F and start putting out water. The second run will start out at F and then slowly clime to F and jump again if I let it.
IF I do a third run it starts a good stream at F and continues slowly to about F and then I shut it down. I tested the stuff left in the boiler and it was pretty much just pure water. I have used the exact same Red Star yeast for whiskey, rum and neutral for about a year.
Keeps me honest in that I know that I won't try to push it to do more than it should. I feel that it really brings a lot to the party on rums and whiskeys and is pretty easy to remove for neutral although not totally. I too have 30 gallon fermenters and a 15 gallon boiler. Since I can't put the full 15 gallons in, I instead do washes of about 26 gallons; gives room for fermenting and thus provides me with 2 13 gallon runs.
Would like to do the full 26 in one run but a bigger boiler will be down the road for me. Do you have access to dried, cracked corn? Gotta be a lot cheaper than the canned stuff. I always sanitize my fermenter with scalding hot water before starting a mash and when I'm not using it I wipe it down with bleach water and let it drip dry upside down. So far I haven't gotten any molds or anything, I think it was the yeast or what ever kind of nutrient they used.
FloridaCracker said: I have used the exact same Red Star yeast for whiskey, rum and neutral for about a year. I can get dried corn or yellow corn meal but I use the canned corn because it already has a lot of dextrose in it and I get the corn, sugar and yeast all at the same GFS store on the way home from work. There is a few farms around here that sell fresh produce, They have that bi-color sweet corn on the cob, they pick that stuff early in the morning at daylight and if they don't sell it within 2 days they throw it out or give it to farmers free to feed their pigs and cows.
If I want it all I have to do is go there and pick it up. That sweet corn on the cob gives a sweeter smell and taste to the liquor but it's a pain in the ass to shuck it and cut it off the cob. The stuff in the can is all ready to go I just grind it up in a blender, cook it for an hour with enzyme to convert the starch, add nutrient and dump it in the barrel. I use 50 lbs of cane sugar with it and it turns out pretty good.
When I mix the sweet corn with cane sugar you can't tell the difference it just makes more alcohol. From 30 gallons of sweet corn mash and cane sugar I end up with 4 and a half to 5 gallons of proof.
Grim says that much alcohol for 30 gallons of mash seems like a lot but on average that's what I get. I have a 40 gallon HDPE plastic barrel that I fill to 30 gallons with the corn and sugar and water, I get two 15 gallon still fulls from that. Last night I did a first run and I have almost 6 gallons of somewhere around proof, When I run it a second time I know I going to have at least 4 maybe 4 and a half gallons at or proof. By saying that, nitrogen must be present!
DAP Diammonium phosphate is usually used as yeast nutrient. Ammonium salts or ammonia are also great sources of nitrogen. A sugar wash typically needs 2 ml. It might even kill them.
Your yeast requires a slightly acidic environment to survive and multiply, which also helps restrain bacterial contaminants. It is advisable to maintain the mash a pH of about 4. Citric or lactic acids will help you do that. Lemon juice can be a great and cheap alternative!
You can always double-check the pH using pH papers. Temperature is another key to successful alcohol yield. At some point, the temperature the yeast is submitted can degrade the flavor of the final distillate.
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